Whisk the flour, salt, and sugar in a large bowl. Add the warm water and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of the ghee or oil. Stir until a shaggy dough forms.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 to 7 minutes, until smooth and soft. If it is very sticky, dust in flour 1 teaspoon at a time; avoid adding too much, as a soft dough makes flakier roti.

Shape the dough into a ball, lightly oil the bowl, and return the dough to the bowl. Cover and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces and shape each piece into a smooth ball. Lightly coat the balls with a little of the remaining ghee or oil. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.

On a lightly oiled work surface, roll one dough ball into a very thin round, about 8 to 9 inches (20 to 23 cm) wide. Brush lightly with ghee or oil. Fold the round in half, then fold it in half again to make a triangle. Roll the triangle into a loose spiral, tucking the end underneath.

Repeat with the remaining dough. Starting with the first coil, gently flatten and roll it into a 6- to 7-inch (15- to 18-cm) round. Do not worry if the shape is imperfect.

Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium heat. Add a thin film of ghee or oil. Cook one roti for 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning once or twice, until golden brown with browned spots and visible layers. Adjust the heat if it browns before the center cooks through.

Transfer the hot roti to a clean plate and gently clap it between your hands or fold and lightly scrunch it to separate the layers. Cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel while cooking the remaining roti. Serve warm.